London Diary
September 20th, 2009It’s hard to believe we arrived in London last Wednesday (late night)… and are leaving again tomorrow – I feel as if I’ve been here five minutes! We’re staying at the Hotel Russell, overlooking Russell Square. Believe it or not, our room is ultra-modern – a 7th floor suite with a turret so we look down on the park and across to the Thames. We can see the London Eye from the window — and Sunday night, brilliant fireworks on the Thames! We also discovered that there’s a great cafe in Russell Square right across the street, where we’ve had fabulous, affordable breakfasts al fresco all week.
On Thursday (husband Frank’s birthday) we had tickets to tour Parliament. Once a year, there are many public buildings which are normally closed that are open to the public at ticketed Open Days. We had pre-ordered our tickets. The tour was spectacular. I learned more about British government and history than in any course. I was suprised that the chambers for the House of Commons and House of Lords were quite small – next time I watch on TV I’ll have a different perspective.
We then went to Fleet Street and toured St. Bride’s Church, (after refreshment at the Old Bell pub – directly in front of the church). I have been following Samuel Pepys’ diary at www.pepysdiary.com for several years and this is the church where he was baptized. The spire is also the model for the modern wedding cake. We also saw Samuel Johnson’s charming house but it was closed. (Alert- this is an English major going to London so literary sites are top priority.) We peeked in London’s oldest pub, The Olde Cheshire Cheese, then took a cab back to Charlotte Street, not too far from our hotel, and celebrated Frank’s birthday at an Italian restaurant.
Friday was a pleasurable business day. My wonderful UK publisher is the venerable Faber & Faber (where T.S. Eliot was an editor as well as one of its famed poets) is located about two blocks away, directly next to the British Museum. I had lunch at the museum with my editor, Julia Heydon-Wells, saw her assistant editor, Emily Hardy, and met the new children’s publicist, Laura Smythe. After lunch, Laura whisked me off to Leicester Square to record about 15 minutes of me reading Humphrey (they will be broadcast in installments over 3 weeks) for the kids’ radio show Fun4Kids. We stopped for a glass of wine to plan the rest of the week. While I was doing publishing business, Frank was off to the National Portrait Gallery where he found a painting he’d always wanted to see in person – his great-great grandfather James G. Birney, who ran for president on the Abolitionist ticket is one in a large group painting of a famous international meeting of abolitionists.
Seriously jet-lagged, we met back at the hotel and ate here.
Saturday was a business day for me. While Frank was off to the Tate Modern, Laura took me to a signing at an independent children’s bookstore, The Golden Treasury. Sue Foster and the staff rolled out the red carpet and there was a wonderful group of kids and parents there to greet me. After the signing, we headed to another charming children’s bookstore, called Tales on Moon Lane, where I signed stock. I had a date for tea in Covent Garden but it was canceled due to illness. My afternoon was up for grabs so I explored the neighborhood around the hotel, visiting the Dickens House Museum on Doughty Street, where Dickens did some of his early writing, and saw other local highlights, including a park called Coram’s Fields, which adults cannot enter without a child in tow. Still jet-lagged and a little weary, we ate in our room and enjoyed British telly, which I love.
We woke up Sunday wondering what on earth we should do and ended up taking the boat down the Thames to Greenwich which was a brilliant decision. In fact, I’d recommend a trip to Greenwich to all London visitors. It’s not that far, you get to be on the river and it’s a beautiful place, rich with history and science, and very different than London.
It’s the home of the imposing Royal Naval Academy – well worth seeing, as is the British Maritime Museum. Then we climbed a high hill through a beautiful park to the Royal Observatory – this is the home of Greenwich Mean Time which is the time the world sets its clock to. (We set our watches there, of course.) Packed with people, wonderful museums on space, chronography, astronomy and longitude, and the best views of London you’ll see. We rounded out the day at a pub and headed back to the Hotel Russell, highly satisfied.
Coming soon: Buckingham Palace, Harrods, Faber dinner and Agatha Christie!
Leave a Reply